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  • Writer's pictureLakwatserong Hampaslupa

(1/2) The Philippine Looper's South Leg.

There are eighty-two (82) provinces subdivided into seventeen (17) regions within the three (3) major island groups, in the entire Philippines. These amazing provinces have been on the bucket list of local explorers like us to visit and experience all the beauty that hides within each province.


Complete Official Checkpoints and Ferry Points.

As for the complete and Official check points and ferry points for the Philippine Loop, the committee for the Philippine Loop Adventure Tour set these, as of 2023.

(CTTO: Ms. Che Lopena)


The Philippine Loop Adventure Tour South Leg (or commonly called South Loop from hereunto) has two (2) official land checkpoints, as of 2023,

  1. San Juanico Bridge, Tacloban City, and

  2. General Santos City, South Cotabato

and at least six (6) ferry crossings within the Visayas~Mindanao group of islands,

  1. Matnog Port, Sorsogon ~ Allen Port, Northern Samar

  2. Liloan Port, Southern Leyte ~ Surigao-Lipata Port, Surigao del Norte

  3. Dapitan Port, Zamboanga del Norte ~ Dumaguete Port, Negros Occidental

  4. Bacolod Bredco Port, Negros Occidental ~ Dumangas-Naluoyan Port, Iloilo

  5. Caticlan Jetty Port, Malay, Aklan ~ Roxas/Bulalacao Port, Oriental Mindoro, and

  6. Calapan Port, Oriental Mindoro ~ Batangas Pier, Batangas City

It may look intimidating on the map, but that's the South Leg in its minimum coverage.

You can always go any direction you want as long as you are passing the land checkpoints, accumulate no less than six (6) ferry crossings through different ports (as I indicated above), and be back to where you have started - that's why it is called a "Loop".


The Clockwise Advantage.

After completing the North Loop and during the early stage of the planning, we were very excited to loop the Catanduanes Island as part of ending the south loop with a big bang. To do that, we have to take the South Leg in counter-clockwise direction, ending in the Bicolandia Region, and before riding back to Angeles City. Considering so many factors such as ferry schedules, road conditions, and the right pacing for a particular province or day, I posted an inquiry in the Philippine Loop Adventure Tour FB page.

While most peps encouraged us to take the clockwise loop, one resource person posted and saying,

"unahin mo na ang Matnog since fresh pa ang katawan mo, the rest are easy..."

which made more sense out of all the other valued comments - and that however instantly discarded the Catanduanes Loop from the plan.

Another worthy piece of advice from a fellow Looper who recently completed his journey saying,

"I took advantage of the ferry trips to sleep over the night, then continue the ride after embarking..."

and this loop hack could indeed save a lot of money for lodging/hotel fees.


Leaving Home in Angeles City.

We left home during the final minutes of Christmas Day, full of excitement, prayers, and even doubts about unforeseen things that we possibly forgot.

Our home is only about 5KM away from the official take-off point inside Clark Special Eco Zone, and the travel in between is part of the stop time.


Starting Point: Shell Northwalk Clark.

25 December 2022, 11:54PM, Official Starting Odo: 24,314KM

This would be the start of something so epic for us - the take off.

We had to fill in the gas at "full tank" in order to record our gas consumption and provide a report (presentation of proof) as to the legitimacy of our south loop.

At this point, we were focusing on the things that we could possibly forget, and hoping to avoid any major issues and troubles, to successfully accomplish this mind-blowing feat.


1st Day: Angeles City to Allen, Northern Samar.

26 December 2022, Monday, 24,314KM ~ 25,134KM (+820KM)


Petron Malvar, Batangas.

Odo: 24,496KM 2:07AM, +182KM

Whenever we are riding towards the south of Luzon, our best place to stop straight from Angeles City is there in Petron Malvar, in Batangas City's StarToll Expressway. From there we can refresh, take some coffee, light snacks, and fill gas after covering almost 200KM of awesome rides in the expressways of NLEX, Skyway Stage 3, SLEX, and Star Toll.


Quezon National Forest Park, Atimonan, Quezon.

We were very disappointed with the quality of roads in Quezon Province during that time, having seen some fellow riders caught in very deep potholes, we were slowed down by these worries. Upon reaching the foot going up the infamous Bitukang Manok, I was very tired and sleepy - so we took the time to drink hot coffee and rest for some time at Catriona's Canteen, just before reaching "The C" of Bitukang Manok Road in PAgbilao, Quezon.

It was dark when we pass the Bitukang Manok and at night it was not ideal to stop beside the inclined roads above - so we cautiously ride without even stopping nor taking any photos.

Camarines Norte Welcome Arch.

Odo: 24,740KM 7:48AM, +426KM

Reaching the "Gateway of Bicolandia" entering Camarines Norte in Calauag was a bit refreshing and rejuvenating, specially when there were lots of riders along the way to mingle with.

This was the point where Bicol Region starts and it was here that we took again the chance to refresh, rest for a while, and at this point after 426KM, this was the point of no return.


Ragay, Camarines Sur.

Odo: 24,817KM 7:48AM, +503KM

We were riding straight for almost 8 hours upon reaching Ragay, and I was very sleepy that feels like I was floating in outer space - so I took the chance to power nap for a few minutes inside that steel Kubo within a gas station.

We were very thankful that somewhere in Ragay, Camarines Sur, there is Fuel Save gas station kind enough to offer such a relaxing place for us riders.

A lot of riders stayed there to rest, a few meters away from Andaya Park, in Camarines Sur.


Legazpi City, Albay.

Odo: 24,988KM 1:35PM, +674KM

We were very pleased to be back in Legazpi City after the pandemic, and we were (at this time) very hungry too - so we drop by in Jameal Bulaluhan with their hot bulalo soup (and half-cooked rice), hahaha..!

That's the nearest karenderia available, and as Loopers, don't really give much attention to the food along the way - all we have to do was to get our stomach full, to keep pushing.

Thus, a weird-looking and tasting bicol express and bopis with half-cooked steamed rice made the world different from being hungry to being full, and speed away to Sorsogon.


Matnog, Sorsogon.

Odo: 25,127KM 6:34PM, +813KM

Sorsogon is known as the 'Land of Kasanggayahan' or 'A Life of Prosperity' due to its amazing tourist destinations and heart-warming "Sorsoganons". The province is in the southernmost edge of the main Luzon Island.


Sorsogon City Breakwaters.

Known as the "Gateway to Southern Philippines", the city of Sorsogon is the largest in the province of Bicol in terms of land area and is strategically located at the southernmost tip island of Luzon.

The bay walk in Sorsogon City was a big surprise to us, called the "Sorsogon Rompeolas", it was very beautiful and locals could enjoy the breeze of the salty air from the seas.

People there were having fun with their families, kids were running all over, and lovers were enjoying the scenic seaside view.


Matnog's Fastcat Ticketing Office.

Although the road from Sorsogon City to Matnog port was super awesome, there was an alarming feeling that something abnormal is looming ahead - there were trucks and vehicles lining up kilometers away from the port's ticketing office. There were also lots of riders stranded for days in the checkpoint.

Only a few motorcycles were inserted in between trucks and buses in each ferry, and nothing more. Some of the riders were there a day before Christmas - it's already 2 days past and they were still there.


Port of Matnog, Sorsogon.

It was already late in the afternoon when we were picked to be one of some few lucky ones to board the ferry - there were lots of riders still in the ticketing office about 6KM away from the port.

Riders were very happy to see Philippine Loopers in ports - they requested to take this photo with them amidst rain still heavily pouring.


M/V Montenegro Santa Clara.

As seen here, only in very tight spaces where motorcycles are inserted, as less priorities in boarding ferries there in Matnog.

And this was our only chance to take a photo with our passports due to the increasing rains in the port.

M/V Montegro Santa Clara has this open space seating for passengers, covered only by rubber mattings on both sides.

Onboard, we met Mario (of Bayugan City) and Ronald (of Pagadian City), going back to get the documents required for their work application abroad. They too were stranded in the ticketing office for almost 2 days, sleeping on their motorcycle with only raincoats in the rain. We offered them hot instant noodles to relieve their lonely experience.

The crossing from Matnog to Allen Port traverses the very violent seas of San Bernardino Strait. The ferry was swinging side to side at about more than a meter - it was our most violent sea crossing in the south loop, and it was a bit frightening at some point.


Allen, Northern Samar.

Odo: 25,127KM 9:41PM, +813KM

It was very dark when we arrived in Allen, Nothern Samar and even the port marker was not visible to the naked eye. Short of money, Mario and Ronald had to continue riding towards Southern Leyte where they will also board a ferry to Surigao-Lipata port like us. I assured them that if there would be problems, just wait for us along the way, and then we will take care of them whatever it is.

It was already late at night, we were hungry, and we don't have a place to stay to rest our already aching backs.


Sarah's Seafood Resto.

After searching for a place to stay and a place to eat, there was this cozy resto still open with some customers still enjoying their meals.

Good enough for that moment, we ordered pork ribs, steamed rice, and cucumber juice.

The lady owner suggested a place to stay for us which was a few meters away from her resto.


Kinabranan Lodge.

Odo: 25,134KM 11:00PM, +820KM

Exactly 2KM away from Allen Port via the main road Mallanes Street is the Dapdap Fastcat Terminal where a beautiful resort beachfront lodge is located.

Upon check-in at Kinabranan Lodge, we unpack our stuff, recharge our gadgets, took a shower, and then immediately retire to bed.


2nd Day: Allen, Northern Samar to Tacloban City

27 December 2022, Tuesday, 25,134KM ~ 25,423KM (+1,109KM)


Dapdap Fastcat Terminal.

It was a big surprise seeing how beautiful the seaside resort was - we were very near the fastcat terminal, and we had on our front the view of the pier and some ferries.

It was a very nice morning to watch and see the view from the garden in front of our room.

We look for a place to eat breakfast outside, and just on the right of the resort entrance on Magallanes Street was an eatery famous for serving hot soup to the cock fighting enthusiasts - we were just in front of the cock fighting arena in Northern Samar.

We were served with carabao bulalo soup, carabao meat steak, and steamed rice.

The owners were very kind to us, telling us how cock-fighters enjoyed carabao bulalo hot soup, and the recently difficult ferry crossing from Matnog Port. They were inviting all the Philippine Loopers to drop by on their karenderia, and enjoy hot soup for free.

From outside, Kinabranan Lodge looks like there is nothing special - but a hidden resort on the inside.

You will be amazed at how beautiful the garden is, inside the Kinabranan Lodge.

We packed and loaded our stuffs, then said our final goodbye to the beautiful breakwaters of Dapdap in Allen, Northern Samar.


Brgy. Marcatubig, Calbayog City

Location: 12.125713, 124.469438

Odo: 25,193KM 10:02AM

The 59KM stretch and winding roads from Northern Samar up to this seaside barangay that's very near Calbayog City was so awesome.

We were riding for more than an hour, so we decided to have a break and enjoy the cool breeze of air coming from the sea.

This was our first time in Northern Samar and Samar area. The feeling was a lot of excitement nearing the cities of Calbayog and Catbalogan.


Calbayog City, Samar.

Odo: 25,214 10:46AM

Calbayog City is a very busy city with lots of pedestrians and vehicles all over.

The traffic was a bit heavy specially in the center of the city where we found the city marker.

True to many old cities in the Philippines, the St. Peter and Paul Cathedral is in the center of faith and of the city.

Fronting the church is the open space Rodrigo Duterte Park, and the Calbayog City hall still with beautiful Christmas decorations.

After saying short prayers in front of the church, we left to continue the rides on to the next major city in the province of Samar.


Catbalogan City, Samar.

Odo: 25,296 12:21PM

At 60KM away from Calbayog City passing the town of Gandara, is another bustling city in Samar called Catbalogan, and is the capital of the province of Samar.

Founded by a Spanish Jesuit priests' Friar Francisco de Otazo, S.J., who arrived in the Philippines in 1596, Catbalogan City is the gateway to the region's three Samar provinces of Samar, Northern Samar, and Eastern Samar.

Just as the same feeling as in Calbayog City, Catbalogan City too is jam-packed with tricycles and motorcycles. The city boasts having an airport in an island called Buri - the Catbalogan Airport was built beside the Cabugawan Mangrove Eco-Park.

The Orly's Lechon Manok and Liempo at the corner of Kalayaan Street and Rizal Avenue serve delicious chicken inasal, silogs, and other local dishes.

A local man with his bandurria also welcome and entertained us while waiting for our food.

The people of Catbalogan City were very kind to us - the traffic officers even helped us with the direction towards our next very exciting destination.


Franciscan Sisters for the Divine Mercy.

Odo: 25,343 2:01PM (+1,029KM)

There is no way one would not stop upon seeing the huge statues of the Virgin Mary and the Divine Mercy in the left when facing south bound.

The Franciscans of the Divine Mercy is a religious missionary community of the Roman Catholic Church. It was nice to take some rest there after 209KM of rides from Northern Samar.

Childrens there were delighted to see visitors - they will ask for gifts and coins, and it was nice to mingle with these kids. Some of them resided far away from the statues, and yet they were there for just being happy as kids. Give them food rather than coins if you have any, since it's not nice to teach them the value of money at a very young age.

After more than an hour of rough rides (about 52KM of very unpleasant roads) and a few kilometers before the mighty bridge between Samar and Leyte, we stop to take another few minutes of rest.

Samar province is home to Asia's 2nd largest cave system – the Langon-Gobingob Caves in Calbiga,

as well as the world-renowned Sohoton Caves and Natural Bridge. We plan to get back to Samar on a getaway for days to fully experience this exciting province.

(CTTO)


The Mighty San Juanico Bridge.

Odo: 25,408 3:53PM

I always remember seeing this bridge on the books during grade school, and I was so fascinated by its magnificent construction curving smoothly between 2 major provinces, and crossing the strait from where it was named, the San Juanico Strait. So, the first time I saw this mighty bridge, I walked on it from its Samar side up to the top of the main bridge with so much joy in my heart and mind.

It was very grateful to see again this bridge, and now that it is included as one of the two land checkpoints for the South Leg, this amazing landmark indeed deserves the rightful recognition as one of the Philippine Loop checkpoints.

Considering why it was built (a gift from a President to his First Lady), how beautiful it is as one of the best landmarks in Asia, and how important it is for the people of Samar and Leyte, it is a symbol of progress and prosperity for the "Warays".

At this point of the first of only the two (2) checkpoints in the south leg, we were riding 1,094KM of roads in various conditions from Angeles City, and crossed the violent San Bernardino Strait.

I'd like to reserve facts and features about Tacloban City - I am planning to have a full article specially about Tacloban City - so there is not much notable when in Tacloban City aside from us eating goto upon noticing many people eating there.

We were soaked in the rain, so it was great eating hot and melting "lugaw" and "mami" at "At Iba Pa Res" just beside the road, where riders and street vendors eat.

We also met a fellow motorcycle enthusiast there in the "carenderia" - Archie was very polite to share some thoughts about him and his motorcycle stories, etc.

(CTTO: Sir Archie Caparan, FB)

Archie even offered to ride with us by next time we pass by Samar and Leyte, in the near future.


Villa Imelda Inn.

Odo: 25,423 5:24PM (+1,109KM)

This lodging house may not be the best, but it is the best suited for our needs at that time - we only need a place to stay overnight, park our maxi-scooter, drink some beers, take some rest, and that's it.

The YSS G-Sport rear shocks I installed since our North Loop was bottoming due to the excessive weights - I had to adjust it but decided to take a rest first since my back was aching terribly.

3rd Day: Tacloban City to Surigao City

28 December 2022, Wednesday, 25,423KM ~ 25,599KM (+1,285KM)


Leaving early in the morning with the heavy rain looming from start to destination requires motivation only adventurous riders would resist and enjoy. We had never been to Southern Leyte, and that gave us more encouragement to ride on wet.

I was able to adjust my YSS G-Sport shocks early in the morning, while having a hot cup of 3-n-1 coffee. It was at this time that I fully realize how heavy the top box load was, and at this point, I decided to shift the loads - heavier loads went into the under-seat compartment while lighter stuff was transferred into the top box, to lessen the top-heavy loads.

It is never a difficult feat to ride in the rain, as long as your helmet visor doesn't fog. In fact, it is more fun riding under the rain on smooth roads - surprisingly, the roads in Leyte and Southern Leyte were good enough to enjoy riding on a motorcycle under the heavy rain.

I enjoyed the smooth rides in the rain in Southern Leyte. It's always better for me riding in the rain than under the hot shearing sun as we experienced from Pagudpod, Ilocos Norte going back to Angeles City during our 76th Lockdown Rides with Parekoy Riders.


Agas-Agas Bridge, Sogod, Southern Leyte.

We knew we were on the mountain pass since the smooth roads flows up and down, left and right. To our great surprise, we didn't know we were on the tallest bridge in the Philippines..!

The visibility under heavy fog was the worst ever, I was having tunnel vision, and it was easy to get disoriented during our crossing on the tallest bridge in the Philippines towering 89M from top to the base.

We stop to eat at Crispy King Chicken in Libagon, Southern Leyte. By this time, we were already riding for almost 3hrs passing Palo, Tanuan, Tolosa, Dula, Mayorga, Manaplag, and Sogod towns.

We were told by the locals that the port in San Ricardo was damaged, and the schedule of the only ferry there was unpredictable - we were advised to board a ferry in Liloan Port instead.


Liloan Ticketing Office.

Odo: 25,586KM 11:57AM

It was still raining when we arrived in Liloan ticketing office, and there were a few riders there also bound to cross the Surigao Strait, from Liloan, Southern Leyte.

Emman was riding his old but proven Yamaha DT125 from Tacloban City and going to Kitcharao, Agusan del Norte, to fetch his damaged car which he had met an accident a few months back when he was travelling from Davao City.

It was way too easy to secure tickets in Liloan ticketing office than in Port of Matnog, in Sorsogon.

Despite the damaged port in San Ricardo Port, there was no stranded vehicles or passengers in Southern Leyte bound to Surigao-Lipata Port.


Port of Liloan, Southern Leyte.

The port is well secured with a gate and guards that will require you tickets before entering the port premises.

The port was a bit old and less pleasant from the outside but it was quiet there with passengers calmly waiting for the signal to board a ferry.

Thankfully and again, there was no over-crowding in the Liloan Ferry Terminal - it's very calm there.

Some delivery transport trucks were also waiting to board with us - little that we know, these trucks become the balancing weight in the ferry that the journey becomes more stable.


M/V Montenegro Maria Vanessa.

The ferry was already waiting for the signal to board with passengers and vehicles, and it was ready to go any time soon.

There were only a few motorcycles to board the Montenegro Shipping Lines because the other ferry operators offer significantly cheaper transport fee.

Xcy (my Kymco Xciting S 400i) is already boarded and being secured for the 2nd time in this south loop, and for the long ferry ride to Surigao City.

Vehicles were being carefully loaded in ferries with great regard to the angle of the boat to the weight of the load inside, to avoid disaster.

Inside the M/V Montenegro Maria Vanessa, it feels like you are just inside a bus, with clean seats to stay calm during the sea crossing.

The sea was very calm, and we were hoping for a smoother sea crossing than that in San Ricardo Strait, from Matnog to Allen.

Rodel and Joel were riding a Honda CB150 and returning to Davao City after 2 years of working somewhere in Cavite. We met them in our stop in Libagon, Southern Leyte.

I had the chance to chat longer with Emman - about his life as seaman, his failed banana plantation in Davao, his car accident in Kitcharao, Agusan del Norte, and his bid to recover his vehicle amidst his disappointment due to a stolen ECU from being parked for months during the pandemic beside the police station.

The earliest recorded mass in the Philippine territory was held in Limasawa on March 31, 1521. It was officiated by Fr. Pedro de Valderama, chaplain of the Magellan-Elcano expedition along the shores of what was referred to in the journals of Antonio Pigafetta as "Mazaua".

Although, the first mass in the Philippines based on early accounts mainly by friars relying on available writings and on tradition was reportedly held in a town called Masao, in Butuan, Agusan del Norte.

We can always strengthen our faith with some interesting facts to ponder sometimes.


Surigao-Lipata Port, Surigao del Norte.

Odo: 25,587 6:02PM

Having rested on the ferry for some time, we arrived in Surigao Lipata Port with so much excitement.

The port was beaming from the boat, and the place was well lighted, unlike in Allen Port in Southern Samar that was very dark when we arrived.

It was so thrilling to finally land on the mainland of Mindanao. It was our first time to ever ride in the promise land.

It was a mixed emotion seeing all the lights on the port - the entire place was beaming with lights.

This port was perhaps the best port in all of the ports that we experienced passing. Even the safe rubber bumper on the edge of the ramp to protect the boats were so impressive.

Even the landmark was well-lighted which beckons anyone to come near it.

We had a chance to take some photos as proof of our Philippine Loop.

These photos are much needed in order to provide evidence for the legitimacy of being Philippine Conquerors.

Emman, Rodel, and Joel decided to push ahead and ride to their destinations whereas us, we decided to spend the night in Surigao City to gain more strength before continuing the journey tomorrow for a safer ride - so we said goodbyes to each other and hoping we'll see them again in the future.


Villa Torre Suites, Surigao City.

Odo: 25,599 6:53PM

We roam around Surigao City to seek a nice place to stay and rest, after filling up the gas in the island of Mindanao for the first time.

Villa Torre Suites is a very conservative place to stay in Surigao City, as it is being managed by a family that seem the owners themselves.

Located on the main street, with lots of parking spaces inside, some karenderias and sari-sari stores outside, has high-end room interiors and fixtures with strong split-type AC, and best of all there's a massage parlor beside it.

After unpacking our stuff, we took our dinner in a karenderia with a table facing the main road itself, and it was so nice to feel the air in Surigao City for the first time. It was also our chance to mingle with some locals in the area.


Mount Alvo Massage and Spa.

The best part about Villa Torre Suite is that it's beside a massage and spa parlor, excellent for Philippine Loopers - because by the time you reach Surigao City, you have already covered 1,285KM of roads from Angeles City, Pampanga - and most expectedly, very very tired.

We were thankful having been massaged before going to bed last night otherwise, it's going to be difficult for us to take off early towards General Santos City within the same day.


4th Day: Surigao City to General Santos City

29 December 2022, Thursday, 25,599KM ~ 26,221KM (+1,907KM)


It was a very calm and cold morning in Surigao City, as our 4th day will begin.

The eastern side of Mindanao was heavily populated by Warays from Southern Leyte, and predominantly are of Christian faith.

The weather was not revealing itself yet on whether there is rain ahead in the towns ahead - but it was cold and a bit foggy.

So we decided to wear our lower raincoats just in case there's rain and make it easy for us to take on the upper rain jackets. Kuya (sorry I forgot his name, but I think he is one of the hotel owners) took this photo for us.


Bayugan City, Agusan del Sur.

Odo: 25,764 9:06AM

Bayugan City is a typical City with Jollibee fastfood (as always) - and after 165km, we had our late breakfast there - our first formal meal since leaving Surigao City.

It was still early and within the schedule even after the worst roads passing Kitcharao, Agusan del Norte where the roads were uneven and on banks even straight, etc. - and I recall the accident that Emman experienced with his car.

It was hot there in Bayugan City that we decided to remove our lower raincoats to feel the air and lessen exhaustion. After taking Jollibee breakfast meals, we left on full stomach (very sleepy), and on our way southbound.

It was still the time of the year when children take advantage of asking for coins by simply greeting everyone with a "Happy New Year" in Bayugan City, and being once a kid, it is very understandable.


The Best Papaitan in Bekik Kambingan.

Odo: 25,874 11:26AM Trento, Agusan del Sur

We were already riding for 5hrs at this point from Surigao City, and most definitely hungry and tired - the sight of this karenderia is like finding an oasis at the middle of the desert.

I asked the lady inside the food counter about their best-selling dish, and she answered confidently, "Papaitan".

Anything sour makes me awake - so I was more than happy to try their best-selling "Papaitan" (a popular Ilocano dish composed of goat's innards such ad tripe, lungs, intestines, kidneys and of course the bile). It was the best tasting papaitan I have ever tasted in my life, this one from Bekik, in Trento, Agusan del Sur.

Nowadays in the Philippines, there were lots of Ilokanos (people in the northwest side of Luzon main island) living in the south, and vice versa - thus, the unique food from afar has been always available to any region and province in the country.


Tagum City, Davao del Norte.

Odo: 25,974 1:21PM

We arrived at Tagum City after the winding road traversing the mountain that was so thrilling to ride.

We had no expectations whatsoever, but we were so delighted about the new city hall located in Apukon Bypass Road, complete with a sunflower garden, holiday tree, a huge open space, and parallel roads with lots of trees leading back to the old road in the city.

It was wide and has majestic impression despite Tagum City being relatively small with a population of not more than 300,000 people.

After a few photos, we proceeded with our journey towards the direction of Davao City via Carmen that's 80KM away.

The roads to Davao City from Tagum City was so wide and was so relaxing to ride. You will immediately know however when you have entered Davao City - that is, when the roads become congested with trailer trucks and public utility vehicles.


The Best of Davao City.

Odo: 26,055 4:07PM

The People's Park in Davao City has always been one of the go-to places in Davao City. We were there for our safety stop, and to check our routes in and out of the very busy city.

It's a perfect place for jogging every morning, just to unwind, and enjoy the fresh air and sceneries.

Home to Durian Dome, named after the pungent, spiky fruit that grows in abundance on Mindanao, Davao City's center is the "Kilometer Zero" of Mindanao, at the intersection of Bolton and San Pedro Streets.

The Commemorative Monument of Peace and Unity is at the center of Davao City's Sangguniang Panglungsod ng Dabaw, cathedral, and Quezon, Rizal, and Osmena Parks, as well as it's government offices.

Davao City's center of catholic faith, The Saint Peter's Metropolitan Cathedral, was built on the same site since 1847, and is the ecclesiastical seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Davao.

After 6 long years, I was able to visit Davao City again, and now with my wifeY that's also very excited to be there for the first time (except for the congestion that made her decide to push up to General Santos City on that same day).

So, instead of staying in Davao City and enjoy the nightlife there, we push ahead towards the 2nd land checkpoint in South Leg, General Santos City.


Digos City, Davao del Sur.

Odo: 26,113 5:38PM

Arriving in Digos City after some traffic jams going out of Davao City, and a smooth ride along the coast of Davao Gulf, we missed exploring and seeing the city center because we were on the Digo~Didiangas Diversion Road, and the dark was setting in. We were also a bit worried about not having a hotel reservation in General Santos City.

While in Digos~Didiangas Diversion Road, you can't miss the newly built and huge McDonalds - we took the chance to freshen up with some salted fries, nuggets, and sodas.

The roads towards General Santos City (from Digos City) was surprisingly so amazing, from the town of Padada up to the town of Malungon, traversing the mountainous part of Sarangani Province, the zigzag road feels like the best roads in Ilocos Norte - and riding there in the dark was second to none.


General Santos City, South Cotabato.

Odo: 26,214 8:07PM

General Santos City was so different from all the other Cities that we passed by or visited in this South Leg.

When the expectation is low and the reality is so awesome, that's the thing that gives lasting impression the most.

There's this impression of boldness from the time we were entering the city in Lagao, to the time when we were inside Plaza Heneral Santos for the first time.

If you are coming from north of Luzon Islands (us from Angeles City, Pampanga), to be in General Santos City means we were on top of Mount Everest.

Called as the “Boom City of the South”, General Santos City was known in the international market as an exporter of tropical fruits, yellow fin tuna, prawn and copra.

I was very tired at this point - riding 622KM from Surigao City in more than 11hrs on the road , it was not that difficult because the foods, places, and faces will always amaze you along the way really.


The Green Lemon Pension Hauz.

Odo: 26,221 9:00PM

With the help of the very accommodating police force of PRO12 Regional Mobile Maneuver Company guarding Plaza Heneral Santos and the crew of Shell gas station nearby, we were able to find the best place for us at that moment - a parking lot, a place to lay our backs and rest, and regain strength overnight the with a continuous sleep - and it's called, the Green Lemon Pension Hauz.

It was our pleasure once again to meet fellow motorcycle riders and enthusiasts - this time from Cotabato City: Moh-Nur Noor Pendaliday, Juiashem Ayob, Mohamadsaid Gandawali, and their friends use to ride towards General Santos City, from Cotabato City, for fun - and these guys were so accommodating, and so nice to get along.


Plaza Heneral Santos.

Similar to Davao City, every intersection was guarded by tandem police with their high-powered assault rifles, bullet-proof vest, and communication equipment.

At night, the entire plaza was full of spectacles, very lively with people, and so many foods to eat and enjoy.

There were so many karenderias all over the place, to choose from.

It feels like we were in Angele City's Totobits - fried chicken parts, soups, etc.

Burgers, fries, shakes, imagine all you want in a city center and it's probably there.

Formerly called Buayan City, the city is named for General Paulino Santos, who directed the pioneer settlement (mostly by Christian Filipino migrants) and development of the Koronadal Valley that began in the mid-1930s.

5th Day: General Santos City to Dapitan City

30 December 2022, Friday, 26,221KM ~ 26,785KM (+2,471KM)


Waking up early, the Cotabato Riders are still resting after their nightlife in the city.

Leaving General Santos City to reach Boracay Island on a very tight schedule was somewhat difficult feat - but just as to many places we had been, we have to keep moving and let time and opportunity decide for the comeback.

The very kind hotel staff helped us to bring down our heavy top box from the 2nd floor, then there will be no goodbyes since we will definitely come back.


Polomok, South Cotabato.

Odo: 26,271 7:11AM

In Western Mindanao, Rotonda in their intersections are called "Roundball" - and this was our first roundball for the day, 7KM away from General Santos City.

This connects the bypass road from Digos City, the road to the airport, the road from General Santos City, and the road going northbound to Koronadal City.


Koronadal City, South Cotabato.

Odo: 26,288 7:30AM

We were so excited that morning, riding alongside the convoys of army trucks - saluting them for their bravery and service to keep peace.

Reaching the welcome arch of Koronadal City, this was the start of the thrilling rides towards the lands of the warriors.

Amazingly, the city was a lot of beautiful things that will surely catch your attention. Unlike Davao City, Koronadal City takes pride in their lands with lots of welcome landmarks to stop and take photos.

Koronadal is becoming a major city and continuously booming since it has the proximity of General Santos City, and were now in KorCity Roundball, one of the 14 roundballs in western Mindanao.

It was early in the morning and there were people already on the street, the traffic was increasing, and seemingly everyone was busy with the challenges of the day.


Tacurong City, Sultan Kudarat.

Odo: 26,321 7:56AM

The only city in the province of Sultan Kudarat, Tacurong City is only 92KM away from General Santos City and only 31Km away from Koronadal City.

I never heard of anything about Tacurong City before this day, or maybe it was never involved to any violence nor good news, and perhaps it can hold its own issues within - and I was wrong.

Tacurong City has the most number of bombing incidents in Southern Philippines since 2000, as the city reportedly has the presence of different extortion and terrorist groups like Abu Sayyaf, BIFF and NPA.

Although the capital of the province of Sultan Kudarat is Isulan, Tacurong City is the commercial center of the province.


Isulan, Sultan Kudarat.

Odo: 26,334 8:18AM

A 1st class municipality and capital of the province of Sultan Kudarat, Isulan is the administrative seat of the provincial government with Hiligaynon being the province's most widely spoken language.

It was so privileged to have visited Isulan, and from this Isulan Roundball, we were taking right turn towards Esperanza and on to Shariff Aguak. Esperanza on the other hand had some bad news recently as we overheard with the Cotabato Riders.


Ampatuan, Maguindanao del Sur.

Odo: 26,371 8:51AM

There can be mixed emotions when passing Maguindanao for the first time. Reaching this point, the only way to deal with locals to is treat them nicely and with humility.

So, acting as normal local tourists, we were polite in asking for selfie photos with everyone - knowing it's going to be a long time coming back here.

Surprisingly, the locals were very accommodating and smiling, and it feels like we were not in a place where people were abducted, killed, and buried due to political rivalry.

If you are not into local politics, stay lowkey, and you are just simply passing by politely, you will never be touched, and no one will harm you - but if you are arrogant, perhaps you will be in the biggest trouble in your life.

Same as in many places, locals are very happy to welcome you in their place as long as you are within their norms of respect.


The Pink Mosque of Peaceful Mindanao, Shariff Aguak, Maguindanao del Sur.

Odo: 26,378 9:02AM

This was the first time I saw the mosque, I was put to a stand-still for a few seconds trying to recollect if I was really there - it was so beautiful.

We were greeted by local kids that were so cheerful and excited with their stuffs to sell.

Built by a prominent politician in the area that's encouraging peace over violence among his people in in Datu Saudi Ampatuan, Maguindanao,

"Great men are great builders."

Samsudin Dimaukom (the former mayor) commissioned the beautiful "Masjid Dimaukom" and made himself unforgettable if not immortal.

Set to be the new face that will represent the province of Maguindanao, the mosque was painted pink to symbolize peace and love, and was built by Christian workmen to symbolize unity and inter-faith brotherhood.

The mosque was opened on June 28, 2014, along side the start of the religious obligation of Muslims to fast from dawn to dusk called "Ramadan" - a practice meant to inculcate among ourselves the "importance of self-restraint in achieving spiritual perfection and harmony with all people, regardless of religions and races."

Rezhelien Karon was very accommodating to take all our photos together. She told us that some day, she'd like to become a photographer too. I told her to never stop dreaming since it's free for all people like her. Of course, I gave her a very nice tip.

There were a lot of stickers from rider groups and individuals in Pink Mosque staging area - we were told to put ours but we don't have hahaha..!

Seen here is the sticker of Ms. Jemelie Torres, in her many successful quests for Byahe ni Jemelie's travel experiences. The amount of travel experiences of this beautiful lady is vast, and unimaginable.

Ate Liela is the one selling foods and drinks (cold fresh goat milk) inside the mosque fence. I ask her if I can pray inside and she said, "No." - only on a special occasions that anyone is allowed to pray inside (not even them getting inside on regular days), but then she encouraged me to "Balik Islam". So, in my prayers, I ask the One God to give me a hint somehow..

The next two (2) photos of the Pink Mosque are (I think) the best photos I personally took during the time we were there.

The Pink Mosque of Peaceful Mindanao, in Shariff Aguak is perhaps one of the most beautiful man-made structures in the entire Philippines.

And for us, there is nothing bad in studying and understanding faiths - in fact, it is needed so that we can truly achieve the inter-faith brotherhood carefully, through the respect of religious practices.


Maguindanao del Norte.

Odo: 26,427 10:32AM

Datu Odin Sinsuat, officially the Municipality of Datu Odin Sinsuat, is a 2nd class municipality and capital of the province of Maguindanao del Norte.

It was very calm there in the public market, and we were under the extreme heat of the sun during the time of our passing there.


Cotabato City, Maguindanao del Norte.

Odo: 26,432 10:43AM

Cotabato City was known through a song from Freddie Aguilar called "Cotabato" which heavily influence the impression that in this place people were killing each other before.

When we were in Cotabato City, the people were very busy all over the place, and in the main roads. There was nothing so different like in Quezon City or any other place. If not to the song, you never feel afraid for something might happen.

A member of Cotabato City's rider said to me last night, "it's more dangerous in Manila's downtown areas than in Cotabato City", which took me aback for a while and think deeply. It was a bold claim but I know where he's coming from - it is indeed dangerous to roam around in Quiapo area, as well as in Divisoria, hahaha

It was so hot there so we took the time to rest and eat chowpan @ Chowking Cotabato City.


Sultan Mastura, Maguindanao del Norte.

Odo: 26,451 12:12PM

Carved from the municipality of Sultan Kudarat with Datu Armando Mastura as the first elected mayor, the Municipality of Sultan Mastura, is a 5th class municipality in the province of Maguindanao del Norte with only +25,000 local residents.

Sultan Mastura is a town of only about +25,000 people and it starts after crossing the Simuay Bridge, a few kilometers away from Cotabato City, and ended a few kilometers on the main road entering Municipality of Parang.


Parang, Maguindanao del Norte.

Odo: 26,468 12:32PM

Surprisingly, the Municipality of Parang on the other hand, is a 1st class municipality in the province of Maguindanao del Norte.

It has at least three (3) intersections that is going to the towns of Matanog, Barira, and Buldon, also all in Maguindanao del Norte.

We were very lucky that the reportedly damaged bridge somewhere in the mountains of Matanog was already repaired during our loop.


Matanog, Maguindanao del Norte.

Odo: 26,498 1:13PM

Traversing the mountainous roads in Matanog was so thrilling - we were inside the unchartered place in Bangsamoro Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (BARMM) where local people there are trying to keep peace in theirlands.

It was indeed peaceful there when we pass the Marayag Roundball, in Matanog - a 4th class municipality in the province of Maguindanao del Norte.


Malabang, Lanao del Sur.

Odo: 26,551 2:13PM

Despite the sheering heat of the sun in Matanog, it was raining in Malabang when we reach the town, and some parts of the main highway was flooded.

The Malabang Central Elementary Pilot School has this very enticing landmark of Lanao del Sur - so we entered the open gate, and took some quick photos before heading back to the main road, on our way to Picong.

Kudos to Sir Mohamadsaid Gandawali of Cotabato Riders for helping me recalling where this was, in Malabang.


Picong, Lanao del Sur.

Odo: 26,551 2:13PM

Picong town is known as Sultan Gumander before, and as the land of the "Maranaos" (which means "the people of the lake"), Lanao del Sur is the poorest province of the country, based on distorted records used as benchmark which is contrary to existing reality.

Lanao is the home of the Maranao Sultanate known today as the four principalities or "Pat a Pangampong sa Ranao", namely Masiu, Unayan, Balo-i, and Bayabao.

Though as we stop in a bakery on the main road in Picong, we were able to chat with some locals there - they only want lasting peace on their land, so that they can work regularly and their children will go to school - only that.


Picong Tunnel.

Odo: 26,565 2:48PM

Built by the Americans during World War II, this road tunnel in Picong town (formerly Sultan Gumander) in Lanao del Sur never fails to catch the eyes of motorists.

It is the only road tunnel in Mindanao located along the National Highway which connects the cities of Cotabato and Pagadian.

It is located in the boundary of Sultan Naga Dimapuro (SND) and Picong town, the boarder town of BARMM, and a coastal town fronting Rock Island in Illana Bay.

We were so delighted to stop there, rest for a while, and took some photos beside the huge rock cliff facing the ocean.


Tukuran, Zamboanga del Sur.

Odo: 26,615 3:23PM

The Municipality of Tukuran is a 4th class municipality in the province of Zamboanga del Sur, with a population of 42,429 people. Again, it was very hot there during our passage.

You will pass Tukuran to reach Labangan, and a right turn in Ozamiz~Pagadian Road will lead you to Dipolog City, and up to Dapitan City.


Port of Dapitan, Zamboanga del Norte.

Odo: 26,769 6:04PM

I must admit, my riding pace from Labangan, Zamboanga del Sur to here in Dapitan Port, Zamboanga del Norte, is somewhat of a "power loop" already (faster than sight-seeing chubby rides).

We were a bit worried that the ferry bound for Dumaguete City will leave earlier than our target touchdown time, we don't have an advance hotel reservation for the night, we want to avoid paying for the night's accommodation in Dapitan City, and we were racing to reach Boracay Island by new year's eve.

After taking some photos, we immediately went to the ticketing office and secured our tickets going to Dumaguete Port, crossing our fingers.

We learned from the shipping lines office that we have still have 3hrs to spare, and roam-around Dapitan City.


Dapitan City, Zamboanga del Norte.

Odo: 26,774 6:30PM

With little expectations, we were very surprised about how beautiful Dapitan City is - the Dapitan City Rotonda was unbelievable - it beckons you to come in.

We were so excited that all the exhaustion in riding all day from General Santos City for 553KM total paid off upon reaching Dapitan City.

Ms. Loris Baed of Dapitan City's DPWH office instantly recognized us and warmly welcome us in their beautiful city.

Even the New Dapitan City Hall was so awesome... you cannot resist to stop and take photos here!

The Dapitan Roundball (Junction Polo-Dapitan Park National Road) was beaming with lights unlike no other.

Somewhere on the main road of Dapitan City, you can't miss the smokey smell of barbeques and the locals that were gathering there to get some.

Chicken parts, pork meat, hotdogs, etc. barbeques that are commonly found anywhere in the Philippines were served there.

There was no better combination than hot barbeques and cold beers when you are exhausted and hungry.

Some locals recognized us, as Philippine Loopers - they were so glad to meet people like us in their place, and they were so kind to us.

It's always the best times blending with the locals every time.


Port of Dapitan, Zamboanga del Norte.

Odo: 26,784 8:29PM

After about 2hrs of beers and barbeques, we were back to Dapitan Port (formerly known as Pulauan Port) to board the Allison Shipping Lines that will ferry us at night to Dumaguete City.

Boarding a ferry overnight saves money for the lodging, and then saves time to immediately resume the rides the moment the boat arrives.



Click here to see our North Leg.


Byahe lang..!


2022 December 26 ~ 2023 January 3, Philippine Loop Adventure Tour, South Leg

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Lakwatserong Hampaslupa

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"When you summon your will, your dreams become inevitable; once you experience getaways, your voyage never ends."

My dream is to explore, photograph, understand, and experience all the provinces in the Philippines. To do that successfully, we have to travel, explore, photograph, ride, dive, trek, and blend in with the locals. The best places in the Philippines are those that are seldom explored (not mainstream) and accessible only to a few true blooded explorers. Other places that we all commonly love are simply there for relaxation and for fun with friends. But there are places that are astonishingly beautiful yet reserved for those that will persevere: Palaui Island, Jomalig Island, Looc/Lubang Islands, Hermana Mayor Island, Gigantes Islands, Caramoan, Kalanggaman Islands, Quatro Islas, Buscalan, and many more unbelievable destinations. We will share it here - the places, food, and the people.

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